Whole Cauliflower

Doneness

Done when a knife slides into the core with no resistance and the outside is deep golden with charred florets. The whole head should feel tender all the way through, not just on the surface. If the top is browning fast but the centre still feels firm, tent it loosely with foil and keep going — the dense core is the last part to cook. Slice it into wedges or thick "steaks" to serve.

Oil & seasoning

Yes — brush or rub oil (or a spiced yogurt-tahini paste) all over the head and into the crevices so it browns evenly and the seasoning sticks. Getting oil down between the florets is what gives you charred, seasoned edges instead of pale, bare patches.

Season with: Olive oil, salt and pepper (the simple roast): a clean, all-purpose seasoning that lets the cauliflower's nuttiness come through., Spiced yogurt-tahini: coat with yogurt, tahini, garlic, cumin and paprika for a Middle-Eastern centrepiece, finished with lemon and herbs., Garlic-parmesan: brush with garlic butter and shower with grated parmesan for the last 8 minutes., Buffalo: rub with oil and buffalo seasoning, then toss the wedges in buffalo sauce after cooking..

Watch out for

• !Pick a head that fits your basket with room for air to circulate around it; a head jammed against the walls or lid browns unevenly and won't crisp.
• !Trim the stem flat so it sits steady, and cut a shallow cross into the core so the dense centre cooks through at the same rate as the outside.
• !Rub oil and seasoning into the crevices, not just over the top, or the inner florets steam pale and bland while the surface browns.
• !Check the core with a knife before serving — the outside can look perfectly roasted while the centre is still firm.
• !Tent loosely with foil if the top browns before the inside is tender; larger heads need extra time.