French Fries

Doneness

Fries are deep golden-brown and crisp on the outside with a fluffy, tender centre. A finished fry holds straight for a second before it bends, then snaps cleanly; one that flops without snapping needs a few more minutes, and one that has gone dark and brittle was either cut too thin or left in too long. Taste a fry from the middle of the batch — the centre should be soft and steamy, not raw or waxy.

Oil & seasoning

Toss the dried fries with about 1 tablespoon of oil (avocado, light olive or a neutral oil) so every stick is lightly coated before they go in. Bare fries cook up pale and leathery; a thin, even coat is what crisps the surface to golden. Don't overdo it — pooled oil makes the fries greasy rather than crisp.

Season with: Classic salted fries (the version most people are after): nothing before cooking, then a generous pinch of fine salt tossed on the moment they leave the basket so it sticks to the hot surface. Serve with ketchup, mayo or aioli., Seasoned diner fries: toss the dried sticks with the oil plus garlic powder, paprika, onion powder and black pepper before cooking for a savoury, well-browned fry., Garlic-parmesan fries: cook the classic version, then toss the hot fries with grated parmesan, a little minced or granulated garlic and chopped fresh parsley the moment they come out so the cheese clings., Cajun fries: swap in a Cajun blend — paprika, cayenne, garlic and onion powder, oregano, thyme and pepper — for a spicy, smoky fry. Pair with a cool ranch or remoulade to balance the heat..

Watch out for

• !Soak and dry the cut fries — this is the make-or-break step. Freshly cut potato is coated in surface starch and water; skip it and the fries steam instead of crisping, stick together and stay pale. Soak the sticks in cold water for at least 30 minutes (longer is fine), then pat them completely dry on a towel before tossing with oil.
• !Cut even ¼-inch sticks. Uneven fries cook unevenly — the thin ones scorch while the thick ones stay raw and waxy in the middle. A mandoline or a steady knife keeps the thickness consistent so one cook time finishes them all together.
• !Single layer, and shake the basket. Overcrowded fries steam each other soft where they touch and never crisp. Spread them in one layer, shake the basket every 5-6 minutes to redistribute, and cook a second batch rather than piling them in.
• !Use high-starch russet potatoes. Russets give the fluffiest interior and the crispest outside; waxy potatoes such as red or Yukon Gold hold more moisture, crisp less and turn out denser. Peel them or leave the skin on — both work.
• !Use enough oil but not too much. Under-oiled fries go dry and leathery, while drowning them leaves the fries greasy instead of crisp; about a tablespoon coats two potatoes' worth.