Broccolini

Doneness

Done when the floret tips are crisp and charred at the edges while the long stems are tender-crisp — pierce a stem and it should give easily but still hold its shape, not turn limp or mushy. If the florets are scorching to ash before the stems soften, the toss had too little oil or the stalks were too thick; if everything is still squeaky and bright, give it another minute or two.

Oil & seasoning

Toss the stalks with about 1 tbsp oil before they go in. Broccolini has thin, delicate florets that scorch to dust without a light oil coat, but keep it light — too much and the tips fry dark before the stems get tender.

Season with: Lemon-chili (the benchmark): tossed with garlic, a pinch of red pepper flakes, and a squeeze of lemon over the charred stalks after cooking — bright, sharp, and a little hot., Garlic-Parmesan: minced garlic in the oil toss, showered with grated Parmesan in the last minute so it melts and crisps onto the florets., Soy-sesame: a drizzle of soy sauce and toasted sesame oil with sesame seeds after cooking, gai-lan style., Balsamic: finished with a balsamic-glaze drizzle for a sweet-tart glazed edge..

Watch out for

• !Coat with a light oil toss — the thin florets char to dust before the stems cook if they go in dry, but a heavy hand burns the tips. Aim for about 1 tbsp over a whole bunch.
• !Don't trim away the stems — broccolini's long, slender stalk is the best part and is fully edible; just shave off the dry cut end.
• !Single layer only. Piled-up stalks steam each other soft instead of charring, and the florets won't crisp where they touch.
• !Thick stalks cook slower than the florets — slice any pencil-thick stems in half lengthwise so the whole bunch finishes together.