Branzino

Doneness

Done when the skin is crisp and browned and the flesh at the thickest part behind the head is opaque white and flakes cleanly from the backbone. The eye turns opaque and the fins crisp. Flip the whole fish once, gently, with a wide spatula so both skins crisp without tearing.

Oil & seasoning

Yes — rub the skin and cavity with olive oil so the skin crisps and doesn't stick, and so the seasoning adheres. Bare skin sticks to the basket and tears on the flip.

Season with: Classic lemon-herb: lemon slices, parsley, and thyme tucked in the cavity with salt and olive oil., Mediterranean: garlic, oregano, cherry tomatoes, and a splash of white wine or olive oil., Asian: soy, ginger, scallion, and sesame, finished with a drizzle of hot oil., Simple salt-and-citrus: just olive oil, flaky salt, and lemon or orange to let the fish shine..

Watch out for

• !Buy it scaled and gutted, then pat the skin bone-dry inside and out — wet skin steams and won't crisp, and any leftover scales make the skin unpleasant.
• !Score the skin with 2–3 shallow diagonal cuts on each side so heat reaches the centre evenly and the skin doesn't curl.
• !It is delicate — flip only once, with a wide spatula, and lift the whole fish from underneath; rushing the flip tears the skin and the fillet.
• !Watch for fine pin bones along the lateral line when eating; the flesh lifts off the backbone in two clean fillets once cooked.
• !Don't overcook — at 145 °F (63 °C) the flesh just flakes; a couple of minutes past that and lean branzino dries out.